Ahead of their New Zealand trunk show, we speak to P. Johnson’s Tom Walsh about creating fashion that endures

There are few brands that have marked their signature sensibility quite like the Australian label, P Johnson. Known for easeful tailoring and a design quality that somehow manages to inform and avoid seasonality all in the same breath, the label has earned its way into the closets of the style set. Now, on the eve of their New Zealand trunk show—a collaboration with ECC, USM and Tamsin Johnson, Tom Walsh, partner at P. Johnson, tells me what he thinks will define this era of the brand.

The trunk show will run daily from Wednesday, 22, until Saturday, 26 October, 9am to 5pm, at ECC Auckland, 39 Nugent Street, Grafton, with appointments available to book now online here or drop-ins welcome.

P. Johnson has built its identity around the idea of ease—tailoring that feels lived-in rather than stiff or ceremonial. Why do you think that philosophy has struck such a chord with modern clients?
We move pretty quickly now, too quickly. Our motto condenses it nicely: live slow, die old. The austere side of tailoring doesn’t seem as beneficial as its softer side. It is hard to be comfortable and confident when your tailoring, or clothing, generally, for that matter, appears anguished and insecure. Clothing is beautiful and sensual and should bring joy; it should be ‘slow’ enough that it reflects a better, more thoughtful approach to life. We are not here for a long time, and we need to slow things down and try to enjoy it more.

This is the first time you’re bringing P. Johnson’s womenswear to New Zealand. How do you see women responding differently to the idea of tailoring compared to men—and what kind of woman do you have in mind when designing for her?
Our women’s clothing takes its stance of quality and craft from tailoring, but tailoring only represents a small amount of the women’s offer. We want to make genuinely beautiful, persistent and cherishable pieces. Things that will be forever relevant and significant in the wardrobe through their purity and classical reference points. We have a strong and elegant woman in mind. The clothes ought to appear comfortable, sensual and confident at once. We love beautiful fabric, and that is always at the centre of the design, and perhaps that has formed the high basis of quality that traditions of tailoring demanded.

There’s something almost radical about how P. Johnson rejects the idea of occasion-based dressing—that a suit can move from morning to evening without missing a beat. Has that approach changed how people think about what ‘formal’ means?
We think dressing ‘well’ is beneficial at all moments of the day and oughtn’t be too difficult or an impediment, and, much to the contrary, it should be enjoyable. I think we are affecting the definition of formal, perhaps, but pushing the definition of casual up a few notches, instead of meaning dressing lazily, perhaps it more suggests dressing naturally and elegantly without so much concern for the cadence of fashions.

With the space at ECC styled by Tamsin Johnson, this trunk show feels like a full sensory experience. Do you see parallels between how you approach interiors and how you approach clothing—that same idea of restraint, balance, and longevity?
It is more an overarching concern with beauty and what it brings. We ‘respond to beauty with emotion,’ said Agnes Martin, and we feel that is right. Why forsake it at any level, whether it is clothes or interiors or anything designed? 

You produce in Tuscany, show in London and New York, and now bring the brand to Auckland—yet P. Johnson still feels unmistakably Australian. How do you keep that sense of place woven through everything you do?
It is probably not intentional, just a product of who we are. Perhaps we are not taking ourselves too seriously, just the clothes and the intent. We feel Australia, along with NZ, has a unique global viewpoint—we are well-travelled and always have great wonder and respect for the rest of the globe, and we can take away our favourite bits and our most affectionate reactions to things and mull over them with a more open mind. 

The label’s success seems rooted in a certain humility—beautiful clothes that feel easeful and wearable. In a world driven by hype and novelty, how do you stay true to that slower, more deliberate rhythm?
It is quite simple—we are just very fond of the clothes. We just love beautiful clothes and are ruthless about the filter we pass over the designs: ‘Is it beautiful, would I wear it?’. It is also about waste; there is so much waste in our industry, and it is despicable, really. Coming from a custom tailor where there is effectively no wastage at all, we feel very strongly about our footprint. 

Is there anything else people should know ahead of your upcoming trunk show?
Not really! We love to host people, we love the process of moving someone from A to B, so to speak and can’t wait to build a community in NZ! We already have many dedicated people who have visited us in Australia, and we thoroughly appreciate their efforts to bring their friends to us in Auckland.