Meet BY KAI, Makaira Lee's NZFW debut made with her mum
For ten years, Makaira Lee has shaped other people’s collections—styling and art directing from behind the scenes, building worlds through clothing that carried someone else’s name. This NZFW, that changes. BY KAI marks her debut as a designer in her own right. It arrives with a homegrown story stitched right through it: a modern resort collection born from her Fijian roots, drawing on the colours, textures and relaxed spirit of the islands, and made alongside the woman who taught her to love clothing in the first place—her mum.
You’ve spent ten years shaping other people’s collections as a stylist and art director. What finally tipped you into making your own — or has it been the intention all along?
It has never been the end goal, but I don’t think anyone who knows me is surprised. I’ve always loved building worlds through clothing and have loved bringing my own ideas to other brands, and over time, creating BY KAI feels like the most natural next step.
What did all those years behind the scenes teach you about what not to do as a designer?
Working behind the scenes has taught me that you can’t cut corners if you want to build something that lasts. That applies to everything—from the quality of the garments to the relationships you build along the way. It has also taught me that you can’t be something to everyone. The stronger your point of view, the stronger your brand becomes. Know who you are and stay genuine.
Having directed and styled many shows previously, how does the work translate when the show is your own?
I’m so grateful for my experience because pulling a show like this together is a beast! Since it’s my own, every decision carries a little more weight because it comes from my perspective and experiences. I know I’ll always have more ideas than time, so I’m reminding myself that this is my first show, not my last ;). Sometimes you have to trust that it’s enough and save ideas for next time.
I heard you’ve worked closely with your mum to bring BY KAI to life. What has it meant to build this together, and what does she bring to the work that no one else could?
Oh god, this has made me teary. It means everything. My mum is the reason I fell in love with clothing, and she is the reason all of this has been possible. As much as she didn’t want me to follow in her footsteps in the fashion industry (because she knows how hard it really is), she has been my northern star. She has brought decades of skill, patience and care to every garment and, quite honestly, the brand wouldn’t exist without her. Getting to build BY KAI alongside her is something I’ll never take for granted.
What specific references have been drawn from your heritage and found their way into the collection?
The starting point for this collection was my husband Kane and my wedding in Fiji. From there, it naturally evolved into a modern resort collection that draws on the colours, textures and relaxed spirit of the islands. Silhouettes inspired by the effortless drape of the traditional sulu are reimagined through wrap skirts and sculptural knots, sitting alongside vau, shells, and abstract prints that subtly reference my Fijian heritage, celebrating its beauty in a contemporary way.
There’s no bigger local stage to debut a collection than NZFW. What do you hope the audience leaves your show thinking about BY KAI?
I hope people leave with a sense of optimism and can feel the love that has gone into every detail of bringing BY KAI to life. I hope they walk away feeling connected to the brand and believing in what we’re building.
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