The story of Silk & Steel

If our Spring Homecoming issue has taught us anything, it’s that New Zealand may be small, but it’s mighty — home to a pool of creative talent that continues to punch well above its weight. Among them is Silk & Steel, the jewellery label that’s been shaping our style story since 2009. What began with dramatic, intricate necklace collars has evolved into collections like Supernova — still statement-making, yes, but now with a more everyday, effortless edge. Despite the shift in design language, Silk & Steel’s spirit remains the same — intuitive, unmistakably individual, and a reflection of founder Sarah Cotterall, whose fearless eye has seen the brand carve out its own lane — and stay there, unapologetically.

Let’s take it back to 2009, when Silk & Steel first launched. The brand quickly became known for its bold, avant-garde necklace collars. What drew you to that aesthetic at the time?
Growing up in London, I was surrounded by art, culture, and history, which really shaped my love of creativity. I’ve always been drawn to pieces that feel like little works of art but are super wearable. Individuality has always mattered to me—I’ve never liked following the masses. At the time, there was nothing like those statement collars in New Zealand, so it felt exciting to create something bold, sculptural, and different, while giving people the chance to express their own unique style.

Those early collars were incredibly intricate. What was your process in bringing such complex pieces to life?
It was very intuitive and very hands-on. I’d source vintage jewellery and collectible pieces, then reimagine them into modern designs—giving them a whole new life. I’d back them with silk velvet, hand-stitch crystals, fringing, or pearls, and play around with texture and scale until it felt right. Some even transformed into chokers or matching bracelets. They were true labours of love—sometimes taking weeks to make—but I loved that each one was completely unique.

How did it feel entering the jewellery industry with such a distinctive look?
Thrilling and terrifying in equal measure! Nobody else was making jewellery like that here, so it really did stand out. I remember being inspired on a trip to Florence, seeing these incredible bold pieces that gave me the push to start my own label. Once the media picked up the collars and they were featured in magazines, things snowballed quickly. Having such a strong identity from the beginning really gave Silk & Steel its edge.

At that stage, did you ever question whether the industry was ready for your vision—or was carving your own lane always the goal?
I didn’t think too much about whether it was “ready.” For me it was about creating from the heart. I’ve always collected jewellery and loved vintage, so it was natural to reinvent those influences into something new. Carving my own lane was never a strategy—it was just the only way I knew how to design authentically.

If you were launching Silk & Steel in 2025, do you think your approach would differ, if so, how?
The creative vision wouldn’t change—I’d still be making jewellery that feels like little works of art you can wear every day. But I’d approach it differently in terms of storytelling. When I started, social media wasn’t really a thing; today I’d build that digital community from day one because connecting with people has become such an important part of what makes the brand resonate.

Since our last chat in 2017, the brand has continued to evolve. How would you describe Silk & Steel’s journey over the past eight years?
It’s been a journey of growth and refinement. I started out hand-making couture pieces myself, but it wasn’t sustainable to only create one-offs. Over time, Silk & Steel evolved into four ranges—Superfine, Superluxe, STEEL, and our re-launched Couture. Each speaks to a different audience and price point, but everything ties together. I love that customers can build their collections knowing every piece layers, stacks, and mixes beautifully—it all flows like chapters in one story.

Looking back, what have been some of the standout highlights for you—whether collaborations, celebrity moments, or collections that marked a turning point?
There have been so many incredible moments. Being featured in international magazines, seeing Silk & Steel pieces on prime-time TV, and even being stocked in a boutique in Soho, New York, were all real pinch-me highlights. One of the most exciting though was creating a bespoke neckpiece for Ellie Goulding which she wore on stage at her concert. She loved it, posted about Silk & Steel to thank me, and was later spotted wearing our jewellery out and about in Sydney. To have an international artist embrace my designs in such a genuine way was amazing. But honestly, one of my biggest highlights is still seeing someone on the street styling our jewellery in their own way—that will always mean the most to me.

From your debut statement collars to recent collections like Supernova, there’s a clear shift in direction—one that still feels head-turning, but perhaps more everyday appropriate. How would you describe the evolution of Silk & Steel’s design language, and what has influenced it?
The design language has grown with me. In the beginning, I wanted drama and boldness—those collars were unapologetic. Now I still love statement pieces, but they’re designed with more versatility, so they work for everyday life. Travel, culture, art, and especially the women who wear Silk & Steel all inspire me. I think that balance of edgy and luxe has always been there—it’s just evolved in a way that feels more wearable.

What inspired Supernova, and how does it connect to your wider body of work?
Supernova was inspired by ’90s runway glamour—those powerful, glamorous silhouettes with a rock-luxe edge. It ties back to my love of bold, statement jewellery, but reimagined to feel modern and versatile. You can layer it up for drama or pare it back for everyday—that balance really connects it to everything I’ve created before.

We’re in an era where expressive fashion is thriving and maximalism is making a comeback. How do you see Silk & Steel’s subtle-yet-statement approach fitting into that landscape?
I think it’s perfect for right now. Silk & Steel has always been about balance—expressive enough to stand out, but timeless enough to transcend trends. Our designs allow people to experiment with maximalist styling while still feeling effortless, which is exactly what fashion needs in this moment.

I love mixing metals. What traditional jewellery ‘rules’ do you love to break? And what are some simple tips and tricks you wish others knew when it comes to piecing together jewellery looks?
I’ve never been a fan of rules. I love mixing metals, layering delicate with chunky, and playing with contrast. My best tip is to echo something across pieces—maybe repeat a texture or shape—so the look feels intentional. And above all, have fun. Jewellery should feel like self-expression, not restriction.

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