Underlena, a gorgeously intimate lingerie space, launches its first collection of perfect underwear
New Zealand knows a thing or two about lingerie; after all, some bold and iconic brands call our country home. But Underlena is the kind of space that, for some years now, has been quietly shifting the public's perspective on lingerie, and how it’s supposed to make us feel. This week marks a milestone for Underlena’s founder, Maxine Kelly, as she launches an intimate collection of her own—and having sampled the goods ourselves, we can confidently say that these might be the best bottoms in our top drawers right now. Below, Maxine details her thinking behind this beautiful range.
First things first, congratulations! How does this collection, your first, build on everything that Underlena has curated and created thus far
Thank you so much! From the beginning, I was really trying to create an experience that hadn’t been felt before in New Zealand—a really tight curation of brands from around the world that weren’t available here, in an intimate and warm environment. This collection builds on that intimate environment and brings it out a bit more into the world, as a brand in our own right. It’s our interpretation of everyday sensuality.
When did you decide to design your own briefs, and what did you hope that they’d feel like?
It has been a question mark since I started the business four years ago, but I was resistant—I thought there were enough brands out there, and had made it my mission to find and make them available in New Zealand. But, a couple of years ago, I was feeling the need for a cut of brief that I hadn’t found yet, in a natural or naturally-derived fibre—you know, easily machine washable, breathable, a bit of a thrash and bash knicker but still a bit hot (wink) and elevated. I wanted them to feel easy, not too precious and something that might make you feel a bit more ‘you’ when you put them on.
You mentioned months of wear-testing with friends, family, customers—what surprised you most about what people wanted from their underwear?
Yes! We did a full size run before going into production, and gave them to a variety of women with different body types and sizes, which really allowed me to understand what they all wanted—which was, to have an everyday favourite that they can grab, that they know is going to make them feel great. Which isn’t particularly surprising, but just interesting to see how consistent that was across the board.
There’s a real clarity in launching with just three silhouettes. Was it always going to be a trio? And how did you land on these three shapes specifically?
It started with the Brief, which is a really specific style—relatively full in the back, with a really gorgeous curve in the front and very minimal on the hip. This was the shape that lived in my head, but I wasn’t sure how to do it in the way that I wanted. I had a picture of my Mum in the late 90s, sunbathing on the deck—she had this great pair of bikini bottoms that sat right on the hipbone. This, combined with photos of other icons from the late 80s/early 90s led to the Brief. But I’m a primarily g-string gal, only wearing a brief when it’s really good and doesn’t show through my jeans. So I had to create the Thong too, which I was keen to make really minimal—possibly a bit divisive, but I really encourage people to try it (I have a theory that I can expand on here!). And then the String Bikini is just a fun, easy basic that feels skimpy.
Even the textile choice feels intentional. Why that material, and what do you think people will notice most when they put it on?
Yes! I really went down the rabbit hole here and landed on TENCEL™ Lyocell, which is a fibre derived from the pulp of sustainably grown eucalyptus and beech trees, and manufactured in a close-loop system which recycles the water, and 99% of the solvents used in the process. People will notice how fresh the fabric feels—it’s quite cool to the touch and super soft, a really beautiful fibre to use for underwear too because it’s breathable, moisture-wicking and durable. The elastic is super soft too, designed so that you don’t notice the garment when you wear it.
Where and how are these pieces made?
We made the decision to go offshore with these and chose Portugal as our manufacturing home. Portugal has an extensive history of garment manufacturing, so we had the ability to source everything there—the fabric, elastic, tags—which feels really good. The factory, near Porto, really prioritises their team’s wellbeing, as well as moving towards waste reduction, implementation of renewable energy, and full supply-chain mapping. They are a true partner in our business.
In your view, what constitutes the perfect pair of underwear?
Above all, something that makes you feel great when you put it on! It’s not pinching, digging or cutting you off anywhere.
What does sensuality mean to you—and how does that show up in your designs?
Sensuality to me is found in the everyday experience, and is really just rooted in noticing things a little bit more in a way that feels grounding. The morning coffee, an extended hug, thinking about what you’re cooking. It shows up in Underlena in the fabrics we choose, how the cut makes you feel. They make you notice.
There’s something almost radical in designing underwear not to be looked at, but to be felt. Do you think people are craving that shift?
I think people are craving a bit of duality, to be honest. The permission to feel a bit hot, for yourself, but if someone else sees you too, then that’s fun, right? I think we’ve swung from Victoria’s Secret energy of the early 00s to the relaxed and soft energy of COVID times. I feel like people are looking for something that gives a little bit of both.
You’ve curated such a loyal customer base for Underlena thus far. How did that community shape the way you approached this collection?
Yes! We are so fortunate to have such incredible and diverse customers. Our community really supported us through this—our fit testing was done by a number of our customers, so having that immediate feedback was incredibly powerful. Naturally, being in the changing room with people on a daily basis really puts their needs and desires front and centre for me, and also hearing how they want to feel, or intuiting that through the pieces they choose, or the comments they make.
This feels like a foundation—literally and metaphorically. Are there more designs in the works?
Absolutely, I have more ideas percolating! We’ll start with more colours, but in general, I’m very interested in making really great bottoms for people to love and wear with everything. But you’ll have to stay tuned…!
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