Cartier reinterprets Santos de Cartier Chronograph watch for the modern wearer
It’s one of the most iconic watches in the luxury market—but the story of the Cartier Santos was born out of pure functionality. Now, as Lana Andelane discovers, the jeweller is reinterpreting its iconic Santos de Cartier Chronograph, a timeless watch updated for the modern wearer.
In 1904, Brazilian aviator and inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont was eager to read the time while flying, without relying on a pocket watch. With this goal in mind, he asked French jeweller Louis Cartier to create a timepiece for him—one that would eventually become the first modern wristwatch. This original Santos-Dumont model became the foundation of Cartier’s iconic watch collection, the Santos de Cartier, a line rooted in heritage and pioneering spirit.
In 2020, Cartier released a sporty, extra-large reinterpretation of its classic Santos de Cartier Chronograph timepiece, and now, six years later, it’s the 2020 edition’s turn for reinvention. With its focus on performance yet everyday functionality, the new Santos Chronograph continues to channel Santos-Dumont’s enduring legacy. Speed was one of Santos-Dumont’s primary concerns: he holds numerous aviation records, the most significant of which dates back to 1906, when he covered a distance of 220 metres in 21 seconds. With its enhanced dial and refined size in gold, gold and steel, and all-steel versions, the new Chronograph is designed to measure records—building on the utility and versatility of the original model.
The 2026 edition is also smaller and thinner than its 2020 predecessor. It’s now a LM (large model), measuring 47x40 mm. It features a dial with alternating satin and sunray finishes, as well as black sword-shaped hands coated with Super-LumiNova®, a phosphorescent green luminescent material. It also features three counters: the seconds at 6, the minutes at 3 and hours at 9, circled by yellow gold or rhodium. This enhanced contrast is designed to maximise readability.
Eight polished screws frame the face, and for the finishing touch, the heptagonal crown is set with a synthetic blue faceted spinel—or, for the gold model, with a sparkling sapphire.
The end product is the result of more than 70 steps, from the stamping of the dial to the decals to the final protective layer. Everything works in unison to highlight the Chronograph’s shape and emblematic codes.
Santos de Cartier watch in steel and 18K yellow gold. Image via Cartier
Inside, the new Chronograph is powered by the automatic calibre 1904-CH MC mechanical movement, the name of which refers to the year the first Santos was created. The Chronograph features two push buttons—the first for the start/stop function, and the second for resetting—for everyday ease and utility.
This is, of course, a watch designed to be worn daily and treasured for a lifetime—so durability was imperative. After being subjected to numerous resistance tests to guarantee its long-term resilience, it offers a power reserve of 47 hours. It’s also water-resistant, up to 10 bar, and offers enhanced protection against magnetic fields, shocks and temperature variations.
The watch bracelet embodies the same standards. It’s equipped with the SmartLinkTM system, allowing it to be adjusted to size in seconds, and QuickSwitchTM, which allows the supplied strap and bracelet to be interchanged.
A marvel meant to endure indeed.
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